“Semi precious gems are being mined and sold by the kilo not carat in Pakistan. We want to play a role in uplifting this trade through standardized branded jewellery.”– Amir Adnan

The House of Amir Adnan is perhaps one of the few design enterprises in Pakistan that operates on a true corporate framework. He is selling all over Pakistan as well as from flagship stores in Dubai. As a label he is expanding, taking the brand from traditional menswear to corporate clothing, FNKAsia, Amir Adnan Women and now jewellery. Instep talks to the designer as he makes a debut at the Dubai Fashion Week…

Instep: Tell us about the latest brand expansions at Amir Adnan?
Amir Adnan: The latest expansion is jewellery design. We are using silver as base metal with stones that are mined out of Pakistan. They include precious and semi-precious stones. The idea is to utilize stones and craftsmanship of Pakistan. Currently gems are being sold by the kilos not carats. The trade is under utilized and I want to help in reviving it. We have excellent gems mined in Pakistan, especially quality emeralds and the rare pink topaz, which no one even knows about. We want to bring that up. Ours is standardized branded jewellery.

Instep: Designing jewellery is much more technical than designing clothes? How do you manage without the training?
Amir Adnan: I am a trained jewellery designer. I was trained in Dubai by J.E. Austin in collaboration with the USAID who were working to uplift the jewelry industry in Pakistan. It was a short training course but I was trained by French and German experts. That has given me the eye for quality control and the eye to look over the very experienced kaarighars who I have hired.

Instep: So far the brand Amir Adnan has been all about ready to wear. What motivated you to step into jewellery design?
Amir Adnan: I’ve always been interested in exploring stones. There is a need for it in the market. When I say branded standardized jewellery, it means the jewels are truly standardized. The grams of silver, ruby and emerald, for instance, are fully defined. And it is all coded. So if someone returns three years later for the same design, it will be available. What happens here is that women go to jewellers who they know and trust. That might mean a jeweller who is known to the whole family. But it can be a hassle to go and look for the right design and find out the details, negotiate and so on.

Instep: Will you also be taking orders on customized pieces?
Amir Adnan: Maybe. But the whole object is standardized jewelry on the lines of Judith Ripka and John Hardy.

Instep: What is your target market?
Amir Adnan: I can’t go into the demographic but the target is the modern woman, a woman who goes out and is in tune with world. And she may not have the time to go out and look for the right design. Our designs are not traditional. They are contemporary.

Instep: Over to clothes and collections, why have you decided to participate at the Dubai Fashion Week this year?
Amir Adnan: I’m participating at the Dubai Fashion Week because I want to promote the brand in the Middle Eastern market. It is a special line called Princess. The collection is geared towards that market and not what we produce in this region. So it’s important to show at DFW.

Instep: You haven’t shown in Pakistan for quite sometime. Why?
Amir Adnan: Yes, I haven’t done a show in a while. I want to do one but I want to do it systematically. I don’t think charity and fashion gels well together because fashion often takes a backseat. I don’t want to do a show just for the sake of doing it. If I’m showing an Autumn/Winter collection, I want to make sure that it is available in all my stores across the country. Every outfit from the collection should be available at the stores. That is the purpose of showing.

Instep: How has the response been to Amir Adnan Women (his latest brand that offers ready to wear trousseau and bridal wear)?
Amir Adnan: Amir Adnan Women is our line of prêt a couture. It offers high value outfits over the shelf. We have multiple colours and a variation in sizes. Everything is finished. It saves clients the hassle of trials and appointments. And with our jewellery line, one can find an outfit and the jewellery to go with it.
In the pipeline are accessories like shoes and bags. So it will be a one-stop shop where everything is available.

Instep: As someone who’s into mass retail, you’ve also suffered the lack of general logistical infrastructure in Pakistan. Have you ever thought of moving production to another country?
Amir Adnan: I have never thought about moving production outside Pakistan. If I’m catering to the Pakistani market, it makes no sense to move production. The problem is lack of industry infrastructure. The system will develop when there are 200 more people like me in the industry working on a mass retail scale.

Instep: Has the Trade Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP) ever assisted your business in Dubai?
Amir Adnan: TDAP has a scheme. If a brand such as mine is operating outside Pakistan, they will subsidize 50 per cent of rent in the first year, 25 per cent in the second year and ten per cent in the third year. I have received two cheques from them. But it took two years for the first cheque to arrive. Then the second cheque arrived much later. The subsidy is for the rent, not the cost.

In my personal view, it is unreasonable and unrealistic to expect the government to cover costs. Businesses should sustain themselves irrespective of any help from the government. These schemes exist to promote export. It is a sign of encouragement from the government. But we also have to see that this is a developing nation and the government has a lot on its plate.

Instep: What is your take on the Lux Style Awards?
Amir Adnan: I’ve won once. The last LSA I saw was the one in Malaysia. It was sweet of them to fly all of us out there. And it was a great show. I missed last year’s show. But I believe that it is perhaps the only platform where we are acknowledged. Everyone who condemns the show must realize that to put up such a show is a monumental task. They should try to do it and if they can’t, they should encourage the show. It’s a wonderful thing they do.

Amir Adnan was talking to Maheen Sabeeh

Shades of grey

Instep takes an inside look at the world of photography through the eyes of Amean J – the photographer who likes telling stories through his portraits By Maheen Sabeeh.

The minimalist
Amean J opens the door with a smile and asks if I had a hard time finding his place. He looks picture perfect in a crisp white shirt and black pants. As he guides me to his office, I look around and see a big blown up image of a man standing at a train station in Prague. “It’s a part of my exhibition,” says Amean sheepishly. It’s his first online exhibition and he looks excited at the idea, knowing that people from all over the world will log on, hoping that those who do will realize that it’s a Pakistani man doing it. Yes, Amean is a patriot at heart, even though he has lived in the US for quite sometime. Karachi is his home and he doesn’t want to leave it ever!With a fashionable hint of a beard, Amean looks more like a businessman than a photographer. Photography is his craft, but it is also his bread and butter. It is this approach to photography that really sets him apart. Some of the most prolific photographers have a side business to bank on. Be it Tapu Javeri who has his jewelry business or Ather-Shahzad who are
make-up artists as well. But Amean J is a little different from the lot. He works under the label 18% Grey. “It’s not just a name. 18% Grey is registered as a company, I pay taxes. It is a profession and a business, one that I live on and my clients should now that I work in a professional environment,” he says thoughtfully.His taste is that of a minimalist. His office doors are gray; a glass table is located in the middle of the room with funky ashtrays lying around. Before we talk, Amean goes and brews a hot cup of coffee. Over two steaming mugs, we go back in time as Amean tells his story…
The first steps
Amean J has been around for almost a decade now, working with the likes of stylist par excellence Nabila, designers like Sonya Battla, musicians that range from Rushk to Josh to Overload. But just like everything else in life, this fling with the camera was purely a game of fate.Amean’ stint with the camera began when he was going through a phase of confusion, undecided about what he wanted to do in life. Starting from Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture in 1992, Amean moved from school to school – he joined University of Texas at Arlington with a major in fine arts, then the Rhode Island School of Design and finally finished his degree from Academy of Art University in San Francisco with a major in photography. “Yeah, I was confused. I came from a conservative background but I didn’t want to be a businessman,” he says reminiscently.
In 1998 he landed his first big shoot with cricketer Wasim Akram. From then on, there was no looking back. His inspiration comes from mundane things in life, as he points out, “When was the last time you appreciated how green the grass was?” and further adds, “On the other extreme, I am very interested in politics and decisions that are made by the policy makers.”
While talking, Amean looks straight at the walls, sometimes at the floor with his legs stretched out as he sits on a chair. He has a spontaneous energy inside him that bursts out as we talk about Stanley Kubrick, the filmmaker who began his career as a photographer. Amean comes across as a philosophical man but he’s definitely not boring. He is friendly and quick-witted in a very unpretentious way.As a photographer,Amean is an all-rounder. His work ranges from shoots in various fashion publications to corporate work as well as personal portraits. In Pakistan, photographers don’t specialize in any one form. Those who do commercial photography are often the ones shooting the glamorous world of
fashion. Amean explains this phenomenon and says, “Unlike the west it would not be easy to focus on one area yet, as the industry in Pakistan is still small. In the long run quality will only improve when photographers will start focusing on specialized areas.” Amean is of the opinion that this industry is open to newcomers, provided they have the ability to do diverse projects.
Glitz of the celebrity world
Working in the fashion industry is surely not easy. Everyone has fragile egos and competition is ripe more than ever with Fashion Week around the corner. Now so more than ever as fashion schools such as PSFD and AIFD are gaining precedence. With new blood coming in, be it modeling or being a designer, it is, a cut-throat industry. In such a scenario, how is it operating in the fashion world?Amean takes a pause and says softly, “Initially I had problems but solely because I was not trained or inclined to do fashion photography at all. Perhaps due to the same reasons I ended up breaking into the industry with fresher ideas. I still feel I have a smaller clientele in the fashion industry, because my style of work does not appeal to all and I don’t intend to compromise,” and continues, “Its always a team effort and our models have always been great to work with. The only models I haven’t worked with are the ones who restrict themselves to only few photographers, I feel it hurts them more than anyone else. As for the designers I do sometimes feel that some don’t know what they want, and the miscommunication leads into uncomfortable results, but new school designers are great to work with
because they have the education and the exposure. Some of the senior ones who have the maturity in design also promote contemporary ideas.”
Surprisingly, Amean has not suffered the weight of fashion battles. And that is because he is smart enough to not get involved in the politics of fashion. “I’m known to lay my cards on the table well, leaving minimal room for miscommunication and most appreciate it. It’s very rare that we end up with results that leave a bad taste,” explains Amean.Nowadays, fashion publications have become a trend. In fact, there are so many magazines coming out that one feels lost. This certainly does not mean that the quality is always good. It looks and to a certain extent is more quantitative than qualitative. Amean agrees, “It’s the same situation with the designers, too. There is a new shop opening every week, but that doesn’t mean that there is quality, though there is a lot more activity in the fashion industry and the competition does force people to improve and be on the edge to survive. So in that respect it’s good.”
But how does one change it then? More people don’t always guarantee good work. There has to be a standard, be it designing or being a photographer. Unless a proper standard and a guideline is present, people will continue to churn out mediocre work. As someone who has been a part of this media boom and expansion, Amean does have a view on things. “We need to take our industry more seriously, may be slow down in the rat race a bit and concentrate on quality instead. We as a nation unfortunately tend to think short term. I feel we should look at the larger picture and that too globally instead of living in our little bubbles,” says Amean logically.Amean has a funky taste in fashion. He tells me that he likes what Sonya Battla, Maheen and Maheen Karim does, he likes the classic Rizwan Beyg and the traditional work of Bunto Kazmi. A lot of shoots that Amean does are with Nabila. Some of his best shoots have come out of this team-up. And how does it feel working with the pioneer of styling? “Nabila is extremely quality conscience and I’m a quality freak myself so we get along really well. Her team is extremely professional and sound, which helps me worry less about the look and concentrate more on the shoot itself,” says Amean smilingly.Speaking of fashion, we come to the subject of the two fashion councils. Everyone has a side to pick; the question is where does Amean stand? “I’m neutral. The day photographers start taking sides, it’ll be bad,” he says firmly.
Now what?At 32, Amean is content with life. To him, it’s not about pictures but stories. He finds them everywhere, in faces, known or unknown, famous or obscure, local or international, bankers or singers – it is the love for telling a story with an image that drives him and motivates him.This is a man who realizes how important it is for photography to be taken seriously. In Pakistan, there is not one school that teaches photography at a professional level. Knowing this fact, Amean himself teaches from time, conducting workshops and passing on the knowledge that he attained while studying abroad.A few years ago, he directed his first music video and it was shot with a photographer’s eye. It was an anti-war video, ‘Khuahish’ for the band Rushk. Will he take up video-making anytime soon? “I have to connect conceptually to a song. Rushk’s album was fabulous,” he says retrospectively.These days, Amean is planning to put together a photographer’s club. One wonders if it is going to be on the lines of the fashion council? Amean brushes off the comparison and says, “The idea was suggested to me by Tapu (Javeri) a few months ago. I’m really trying to put it together. It is really unfortunate that in 6 decades we still don’t have a society or a club for professional photographers. There is really a need on a professional level where photographers would be able to exchange notes on a platform and help the newcomers in the industry. For starters I’m working on a yellow pages of photographers in the country, which will be out in the next few months. This will also help international publications and clients to search for the right photographer in Pakistan.” Who knows, someday Amean may even venture into filmmaking or production but just for now, it is the camera and its power that make Amean click!

Deepak wows Malaysia!

Deepak Perwani has had a busy year. From China to India and Malaysia, this roaring designer has been traveling all over the place. He was the only one from Pakistan to show at the Islamic Fashion Week, a part of Malaysia International Fashion week. Instep caught up with this young designer to find out more on MIFW, Fashion Pakistan and what lies ahead in the year 2007 for fashion.

Instep: Tell us about the collection you showed at the Islamic Fashion Week in Malaysia? Deepak Perwani: I was going to show my prêt line (Ethno Funk) at the Malaysia International Fashion Week. But they wanted me to show in the Islamic Fashion Week category, which is also a part of MIFW. I changed the line I was showing. Instead of showing ‘Ethno Funk’, I showed ‘Back to the Raj’. It’s more towards couture than prêt but it was fun and I got a great response. Instep: What was the inspiration behind it? DP: 15th century motif designs, Islamic calligraphy, I’ ve used beads and Swarovski crystals. I’ve also revived the used of thread work (dhaga) that has been missing from the fashion scene for quite some time.
Instep: Earlier this year, Iran also held an Islamic Fashion Week but there was a strict guideline to follow. Now it’s Malaysia following suit. What is your take on this initiative and what does it say about fashion? DP: As far as MIFW is concerned, there were no restrictions or strict rules on what you can show or can’t. Malaysia and Indonesia are liberal Muslim nations and this initiative will help bring Muslim countries on one platform, even if it is just for fashion. It will build bridges. I mean, we can be sexy and flamboyant while being covered too. You don’t have to shed clothes to make a mark. It is a dynamic market. Versace designed burqas for Arabs too! Fashion is such a strong force. So, I think this was a fabulous idea. It’s exciting and rather interesting.
Instep: Is this collection available at your shops? DP: I sold most of the collection! Instep: A word on the project you’re involved in with the government? DP: It is called Craft Revival. We have women from Thar, Sukkur and other parts of Sindh working with us. It’s an attempt to revive the crafts, rilli, toys etc. It’s been four months and we will get more people soon. I’m training them and it’s been great working with all of them. Instep: You also introduced accessories sometime back. What is new on that front? DP: We’ve come up with a new range of funky bags, belts, wristbands as well as necklaces.
Instep: After Amir Adnan stepped away from Fashion Pakistan, you took over as a director. What is next on the council’s agenda? DP: I put my name up just like everyone else and I was chosen as a director. There is a lot that we’re doing. Firstly, everyone is working on their fashion week collections. Fashion Weeks are global now. Pakistan, Bangladesh, Iran – everyone is coming out with a fashion week. But not everyone or every designer will be able to sell or get picked up by a buyer. Competition is stiff, starting from India to all over the world. It is a cut throat business. Keeping
all of it mind, we have signed an agreement at Fashion Pakistan than if any designer gets picked up by a buyer and needs to produce in bulk, the rest of us will facilitate him/her and all of us will open doors to our factories to this designer to help with production etc.
Instep: Are you working on more lines? DP: I’m exhausted (laughs). I actually shelved the ‘Ethno Funk’ collection but now through an agent, I plan to sell it abroad, in particular to buyers in London. It is quintessentially Pakistani but with a funky twist. Instep: Any shows lined up in the future? DP: I have a show in Dubai in February 2007 and then I’m moving to London for two months. I’m taking a course. It’s a future fabric that I will be learning about. Instep: What trends will be in store for 2007? DP: I hopefully hope that Pakistan Fashion Week takes place in March because that will define the trends for 2007. The new age of fashion is about pret, couture is slowly but surely going away. Most designers do gharara/sharara and not many have ventured into pret. You give a client a gharara and then what? I mean, how much kaam, dabka will go on? Pret is the only way fashion will go forward and I hope that if a fashion week takes place in March, it will redefine the year ahead. –Deepak Perwani was talking to Maheen Sabeeh